Is New York Fashion Week... Dead?
NYFW in the Age of Social Media. More Noise, Less Fashion Shows.
A quick side note before starting the piece — welcome to the first Barefaced substack post! I am trying a few new mediums (really just this and podcasting) to foster more of a relationship with all the wonderful people I’ve met through TikTok. The idea is to use longer-form content to give the topics that need it, more detail and air time. Written by yours truly (Lily Twelftree, hello!) I am a digital marketer and data science student obsessed with the (nonexistent) world of beauty data.
So — This TikTok came up on my FYP yesterday and I couldn’t stop thinking about it…
Although Trey is poking fun, he certainly didn’t lie. As an Aussie girl who has always dreamed of New York, especially Fashion Week, it has felt like New York Fashion Week (NYFW) has lost its wow factor in recent years. Of all the fashion weeks it feels the least exciting but has remained… noisy. So, what’s changed and what do brands need to be aware of?
Fashion Business has evolved
If we start by looking at the search volume on Google for the search topic ‘New York Fashion Week’ in the last 10 years the decline in public interest is obvious.
More interestingly, NYFW's past impact and current decline can both be understood through this spike pattern. Historically, the two annual peaks, for Fall/Winter (F/W) in February and Spring/Summer (S/S) in September (with S/S, consistently being the bigger of the two) reflect how fashion weeks were originally intended: concentrated moments when media attention was meticulously organised around designers unveiling new collections. The absence of attention between these peaks was intentional, fashion week would set the tone for the entire season with trends and pop culture evolving in their wake.
If we compare the search volume on Google for NYFW against the search topic ‘Paris Fashion Week’ we can see the opposite trend.
The search volume for Paris also peaks twice a year, three weeks after NYFW as to be expected, but the trend line fluctuates significantly more than NYFW. This is due to Paris Fashion Week being centered around haute couture — exclusive, custom-fitted high-end fashion design. Couture brands must have significant commercial success because couture, at its core, is fashion for fashion’s sake. For many of these brands, couture serves primarily as a powerful marketing tool, generating enough revenue to support additional shows throughout the year. These shows—often cruise or resort wear collections—are rarely held in Paris but maintain the public’s interest in runway shows for brands associated with Paris Fashion Week. This constant stream of events aligns with the new era of retail, where consumers are increasingly conditioned to expect continual novelty and engagement from brands.
Rise in E-commerce and social media
Additionally, couture is so unique that it has a greater ability to capture the zeitgeist, as the level of creativity and craftsmanship involved can’t be found elsewhere.
Instead, many of the biggest shows at NYFW, despite garnering media attention, often showcase products similar to what we already see on our social media feeds.
The rise of e-commerce and social platforms has caused a decentralisation of influence, making it easier than ever to launch a fashion brand. As a result, the barrier to entry is significantly lower, leading to an oversaturation of brands. By proxy, this has meant that the exclusivity and cultural impact once dominated by events like NYFW has become diluted, with attention now spread across countless new brands and collections. This shift has made it harder for NYFW to stand out, while Paris Fashion Week, with its focus on rare and extravagant couture, remains a beacon of high fashion in an increasingly crowded industry.
Brands no longer need a runway
While the spikes in public interest in NYFW are no longer enough to sustain a brand’s retail cycle, the attention the event generates can still be leveraged in marketing. As fashion week has shifted from focusing purely on clothes to emphasizing the buzz surrounding the event, brands are still participating—just not always on the runway.
NYFW has become a content engine. Historically, runway shows were the main attraction, but now brands use the event as a chance to create multiple mini moments for social media. Those hosting runway shows make a moment out of the invitation design, celebrity arrivals, backstage footage, front-row shots, the set design, the casting, the livestreams, and finally, the clothes—with each element being captured and shared across platforms. With social media algorithms rewarding quantity as much as quality, the strategy for participating in NYFW has evolved.
As a result, many brands no longer bother with the runway itself to capitalise on the big fashion moment. Instead, they can cherry-pick the aspects of Fashion Week that align best with their brand identity. For example, pop-ups have surged in popularity during NYFW, with numerous brands using the event to host exclusive experiences, drive consumer engagement, and create immersive, Instagram-worthy environments. CEO of Axel Arigato, Albin Johansson, told Vogue “Traditional runways and presentations aren’t a fit for how we present ourselves,” but the brand recognises the value of this moment. “Our community is made up of a broad spectrum of creative sectors — music, art, fashion, design and architecture, to name a few — and this international crowd is currently gathering in New York.” Hence, capturing the energy of NYFW makes sense for Axel Arigato, while the high costs and logistics of a runway show do not.
Similarly, while NYFW after-parties have always been infamous, now, some brands are opting to just have the party and skip the runway altogether. Lavish parties with high-profile guest lists are social media goldmines.
Is exclusivity necessary?
Much of the recent criticism surrounding fashion weeks, particularly New York, is that they've become all about influencers. What was once an exclusive event reserved for fashion’s elite has shifted toward accessibility, with seemingly arbitrary requirements for invitations. (If you're curious about how influencers make their way up to fashion show invites, I made a video on that here.)
In the past, exclusivity was essential for preserving a brand’s high-end image. Today, however, brands are more focused on reaching broader audiences, inviting influencers from various follower sizes and niches, rather than solely targeting fashion connoisseurs, as they did in the early 2010s with bloggers. With brands now live-streaming shows and prioritising accessibility over exclusivity, the metrics for success have shifted from impressing industry insiders to gaining as many views as possible.
So, is exclusivity beneficial? In this new landscape, it’s not. The emphasis has moved toward mass exposure, and influencers play a crucial role in achieving this. Brands leverage influencers to expand their reach and tap into viral trends while maintaining their polished brand image.
In short, no, NYFW isn’t dead, it’s just struggling through a vibe shift.
And that’s a wrap! I will see you back here next week for another deep dive into the week’s biggest beauty story with all the info beauty professionals (and connoisseurs) need to know. Until then, feel free to give Barefaced some love on all our new Youtube channels (eek).
Lily x